Final Reflections on Our Trip

Yesterday saw our first day after the true end of our trip: no route planning, no looking ahead at the maps, the reality slowly settling in that we had completed our ride. In the morning, we rode with Alex to Union Station where he caught a morning train back to Charleston, and we waited around for the shipping office to open. We then spent awhile removing our pedals, boxing up our bikes, and sending them on their way to King Street. In the afternoon we walked around the mall, visited the new African-American History and Culture Museum (which was excellent), and had our last dinner together. Later today, Ed will fly back to Seattle. I’ll be here for two more nights before flying home on Wednesday.

This trip has been an incredible experience for both of us and we’d like to repeat our gratitude to those who have followed along here and supported us from afar. In particular, a thanks to Niamh and Brenda for supporting us in taking the time away. Also a huge thanks to those who hosted us along the way: Chuck and Brenda in Pittsburgh, Pat and Ernie in Adrian, Odo and all the monks at Assumption Abbey, and Dan in Paw Paw who we stayed with just a few nights ago. It was always a blessing to stay in someone’s home, and we were uniformly greeted by excellent food, good conversation, and care. Thank you all!

Yesterday as we were waiting to box our bikes, we took some time to reflect on our favorite experiences from the trip. Below are some of the highlights from the last eight weeks, as always in no particular order:

Favorite stretch of biking: It was too hard to pick just one; we wanted to highlight two. First, the day out of Kamiah, Idaho where we rode right along the river as we ascended into the National Forest, before entering into Montana. That was likely the most scenic day as we were right along the river for the whole time. After that, riding the GAP trail between Pittsburgh and Cumberland was the most stress-free and unique riding of the trip. It was amazing to be completely off the road on a well maintained, signed trail, with amazing services and towns ready to receive touring cyclists.

Favorite town: Surprisingly, Fargo, North Dakota stood out to both of us as one of our best stops. This may have had more to do with where the town fell in the trip than anything else. After leaving Missoula, it was a very long haul across Montana, Alberta, and North Dakota before seeing our next “city.” Fargo was a nice relief from the small towns and minimal services we’d experienced, and the downtown area was built up nicely.

Favorite restaurant: We couldn’t agree on this one. Ed liked the Chicken Coop Lounge in Seeley Lake, Montana. Between the two of us, we ate an entire fried chicken there. I liked Taqueria La Plazita in Zilah, Washington the best. We agreed they were both excellent. And, we both agreed that the best meals we had were the home cooked meals prepared by our hosts in Adrian and Pittsburgh,

Favorite lodging: Staying at Assumption Abbey in Richardton, North Dakota was probably the best lodging experience, and certainly the most unique. We also both enjoyed staying at our hotel right on the water in Muscatine, Iowa.

Best brewery: We had a chance to sample many breweries across the country, and had lots of interesting beers. The best overall was Drekker brewing in Fargo. The beers were excellent and the brewery was housed in a burnt-out railroad building that had been refurbished beautifully.

Best bike shop: Thankfully, we didn’t end up needing too stop at very many bike shops. All the shops we did patronize had friendly and helpful staff. There was no question that the best one we visited, however, was Joy Machines in Cleveland. The owner was extremely kind and helpful, and gave us excellent advice on our route out of town. At that point in our trip, we were both ready to shed gear, not acquire it, but had we needed anything, it would have been the perfect stop.

Thanks mainly to Ed’s tracking and tallying, I can also share the data for our trip overall:

By the numbers;
Total miles traveled: 3700
Total climbing: 87,634 ft / 26,710 meters / 16.6 miles
Total climbing for just the month of July: 54,878 ft
Days riding: 52
Total Rest days: 5
Total hours on the bike: 289 (this averages about 36 hours per week on the bike)
Average daily mileage: 71
Total flat tires: 8
Flats east of the Mississippi: 1

Thanks again to all of you for following along. It has been amazing and sad as I am to come to the end, I am excited as we both look ahead to what’s next. I’ll share our last few photos below from our time here in DC.

 Visiting the museum.

 We found a rooftop patio in our hotel and spent our last night up there.

 Alex at the train station with his bike.

 View of the Potomac in Georgetown.

Celebrating our last day yesterday evening. 

Ed and a very slight view of the White House.

Day 57: Leesburg, Va. to Washington, D.C.

After just over eight weeks of riding, we have arrived at our final destination. At around 1pm we crossed the Arlington Memorial bridge and arrived in front of the Lincoln Memorial. It felt a little bit surreal; Alex asked us what we wanted to do next and we weren’t quite sure. We’ve spent the last two months, day after day, mile after mile pushing toward this point. Now, we are here.

Conditions couldn’t have been more ideal for our last day’s riding. After a muddy, wet, cool day along a bumpy, rough trail yesterday, we awoke this morning to clear blue skies, and probably the best weather conditions we’ve had for riding since we left Montana. Today’s high is in the upper 70s, with low humidity. From our hotel, we jumped onto the Washington and Old Dominion Trail which we followed for about 30 miles into Arlington. From there, we merged to another trail that took us right to the bridge. The trails were all well signed with surprisingly good surfaces. Unsurprisingly, about half the population of the Metro area was out walking, jogging, or bicycling on the trail, so we spent much of the day ringing our bells and getting passed by flocks of freds. With less than 40 miles total to cover, it was one of our shortest days, and we were less than ten miles out when we stopped for lunch in East Falls Church.

We stopped at the Mall for some photos and were serenaded by a Mennonite choir as we reveled in the end of our journey. From there, it was only about a mile to our hotel, where we are now resting. Tomorrow morning, Alex is going to catch his train home at Union Station, and Ed and I will likely try to ship our bikes back.

Sometime in the next few days, I plan to write up a few reflections and summary of the trip overall which I will post here. Thanks to everyone who as been following along and sending your well wishes. A special thanks to Niamh and Brenda for supporting us from afar. See many of you soon!

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 39
Total climbing: 1191ft.
Average pace: 12.6 mph
Minimum elevation: 28 ft.
Average temperature: 74F
Cups of lemonade purchased: 3
Bottle refills: 0
Lost dog signs: 4
U.S. capital cities entered: 1
Total mileage for the trip: 3700 exactly.

 In front of the Lincoln Memorial. In D.C.

 Traffic on the trail.

 Riding along the Washington and Old Dominion Trail.

 The Washington Monument.

 Leaving Leesburg this morning.

 Lunch stop in Virginia, less than 10 miles to go.

Our first glimpse of the Monument. 

Another view of the trail. A rare moment of low traffic. 

 Back in familiar territory. In the background is the hotel where Ed stayed while he was working in D.C. back in the 19-something-or-others.

Another view from the trail.

Day 56: Williamsport, Md. to Leesport, Va.

This morning, we arose to a distinct change in the weather forecast. As we sat in the Waffle House in Williamsport, the relatively dry day we’d anticipated began to look more and more dreary. The rain drizzled outside and we contemplated our options. We opted finally to continue on our path south and reassess as the day went by. The day started out wetter than we’ve had, and after a few miles we had a steady rain following us. We again were on the C&O trail, and in the rain we noticed that it became muddy in many places. By Shepardstown we were fairly damp, and rested under the bridge to eat some snacks.

We continued on to Harper’s Ferry, where we walked across the pedestrian bridge, checked out the historical sights, and ate some warm lunch. By that point, the trail conditions had improved, but with the rain, we were reconsidering our decision to camp along the trail. Ultimately, we found a hotel 30 miles south in Leesburg, Virginia, and decided to head there for the evening. The next 25 miles included some fairly muddy, gritty trail, but after repairing a flat, and stopping countlessly to remove the sticks stuck in my fenders, we arrived at White’s Ferry, where we caught an historic ferry across the Potomac, and found ourselves in our 15th state, Virginia.

From there, Alex took us on a very exciting route through rush hour D.C. traffic to the hotel where we are spending the evening. We enjoyed some dinner, wandered in to town to check out the breweries, and are now resting less than 40 miles from our final destination, where we will venture tomorrow morning to complete the 8-week trek that we began back in Seattle at the end of June.

Check back tomorrow for a relapse of our final day, and later this weekend for some reflections on the journey overall.

By the numbers:
Total miles ridden: 71
Total Climbing: 482 ft.
Average temperature: 61F
Lowest point: 217 ft.
Average pace: 11.3 mph
Families of deer scared by us: 1
States traveled in: 3
Latest arrival for the trip: 6pm

 Riding along the trail today, with the canal at our left.

 Last night, checking out the local brewery. This was the first time on this trip that we rode our bikes after checking in for the night, breaking Ed’s “rule.”

 Ed fixing a flat shortly before catching the ferry to Virginia.

 Sitting on my tarp underneath the bridge to Shepardstown.

 Selfie in the rain. It rained for much of the day today.

 At the bike Trale Brewing company.

 Traversing some hazards on the C&O.

 Waiting for White’s Ferry to take us into Virginia this afternoon.

 Our excellent breakfast this morning at Waffle House.

During the morning rain in front of one of the dams.

Day 55: Paw Paw, W. Va. to Williamsport, Md.

This morning, our host Dan cooked us and the other three cyclists who were staying in the bunkhouse an enormous, filling breakfast and we were back on the road headed toward the C&O by 7:30am. It was good to get an early start, as it was very warm and very humid today. There was some forecast for thundershowers in the afternoon, but we had clear skies for the entire day today.

We started out on the C&O, and almost immediately passed through the Paw Paw tunnel, which we’d heard that morning was a little bit treacherous. Although not too long, the surface is very bumpy and narrow, with curved brick wall on one side and the canal on the other side. We were grateful to all have strong lights. A few miles down the road, Dan had alerted us to a parallel, paved rail-trail which ran for about 30 miles, and actually cut a mile or so off of the C&O route. Knowing how many miles of bumpy gravel we have left, we were grateful to follow the pavement. Dan had even showed us how to climb up to the trail a few miles before it was signed. We enjoyed several hours of smooth, flat riding, often with the C&O within view to our right.

We stopped for “second breakfast” in Hancock, and apparently tried opening the door of a bakery which had not yet opened enough times that the manager finally came out and let us in (in fairness, it was 20 minutes past their posted opening time). We enjoyed another hearty meal, and continued on our way. The last 16 miles, we rejoined the C&O which took us right to Williamsport where we are staying the night. Our hotel is right next to a Waffle House, so I expect we will be there for breakfast. I have not eaten at one in over a decade, but I trust that Alex will be a good guide.

We are at mile point 99.6 on the C&O, which means early tomorrow morning we will be within 100 miles of our endpoint for the journey. Tomorrow, we plan to have a shorter day to Brunswick, which will be our penultimate stop of the trip.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 57
Total Climbing: 397 ft.
Average pace: 12.6 mph
Low point: 395 ft.
Average temperature: 76F
Sticks caught in my fender: 4
Leaves caught in my fender: what felt like thousands
States traveled in: 2
Touring cyclists spotted: 11

 View from the Paw Paw tunnel.

 The end of the tunnel.

 Riding along the paved trail. Facing off with a deer.

Sun rising over the Potomac, crossing the Paw Paw bridge back to the trail.

 Another view of the trail.

Our lodging last night.

A dam along the trail.

 Alex at the end of the tunnel.

Along the C&O.

Day 54: Meyersdale, Pa. to Paw Paw, W. Va.

Despite an early rise this morning, forecasts showed an ominous storm over our early morning route, so we opted to take our time getting around. The delay ended up working in our favor, as the garage where our bikes were parked had a bike stand, chain cleaning supplies, and a multitude of other bike tools. So, we took same time getting our bikes tuned up before we checked the radar again and headed back to the trail. The first eight miles saw a continuation of the slow climbing we did for the last two days. After climbing a few hundred feet, we entered into a tunnel which was labeled as the "Eastern Continental Divide." If you, like me before this trip, are not aware of what that means: this is the point at which water flows either to the Gulf of Mexico on one side or the Atlantic coast on the other side. Exciting as it was to reach this point, it was definitely less climactic than the triple divide we climbed to in Glacier.

After reaching the top, we had an excellent, scenic, and quick descent into Cumberland, which marked the end of the GAP trail. Along the way, we also crossed the Mason-Dixon line which also was the line into our 13th state of the trip, Maryland. In Cumberland, we stopped for lunch, and at the edge of town, entered the C&O canal trail, which is the trail that will take us the last 180 miles into D.C. We had heard from many people that this trail was a very different surface, much less smooth, and not as well maintained as the GAP. After just a few miles on the trail, this was confirmed. The trail went from wide, hard packed, and smooth, to narrow and gravelly with intermittent mud pits. We intentionally planned our last few days on this trail to be shorter days, and were immediately glad that we had done so.

Tonight we are staying in Paw Paw at a B&B that specifically caters to cyclists and feels more like a touring cyclist's bunkhouse than anything. The proprietor, Dan, is extremely friendly, and rode about 8 miles down the trail in the afternoon heat to meet us and bring us into town to his place. He also led us into our 14th state, West Virginia. After hosing off our bikes, showering, and running a load of laundry, we explored the small town, which took about 30 minutes. We enjoyed a tasty dinner at the restaurant next door, and are now settling in for the evening.

Tomorrow we will continue down the C&O to Williamsport, just two days' riding from D.C. 

By the numbers:

Miles traveled: 62

Total climbing: 584 ft.

Total descending: 2014 ft.

Average pace: 12.9 mph

States traveled in: 3

National Parks entered: 1

Philly cheese steaks: 2
Country fried steaks: 2

Just past the continental divide.

 Brothers on either side of the Mason Dixon line. Ominous.

 Riding along the scenic railroad on the GAP.

 On the first stretch of the C&O. Note the change in surface.

 Selfie in the tunnel.

 Ed passing into West Virginia.

 In front of the second most exciting Continental Divide crossing of our trip.

 Ed took a selfie to get the windmills.

Where the paths meet in Cumberland.

 At the other end of one of our tunnels on the GAP. This one we shared with live railroad tracks.

One of our morning bridges, windmills in the distance. 

Day 53: Connellsville to Meyersdale, Pa.

We arose today and almost immediately found our way back onto the trail, which we followed for the entire day, very gradually climbing into the hills, crossing back and forth across several different rivers, and passing through a handful of small Pennsylvania towns. The trail continued to be incredibly well maintained, signed, and generally pleasant. Likely the most unpleasant attribute of the trail is the omnipresence of small debris, which is usually easy to avoid.

Unfortunately, I learned today that even relatively small sticks can bring treachery. Somewhere after mile 30, I suddenly felt my rear wheel stop and skidded to a halt. As I looked back, I could see the culprit: a small but beefy stick was stuck in my spokes. As I examined further, I learned that the stick had likely traveled between my tire and rear fender before landing in my spokes, and had broken my fender apart in several places. Thankfully, between the three of us, we were able to duct-tape and zip-tie the fender together. Perhaps it was serendipitous that I had my fender repaired, for just as we pieced it together, we began to hear thunder and feel the first drops of rain. We took off quickly, with the next town less than ten miles away. We did not avoid the rain, however, and ended up fairly wet by the time we arrived in the next town. After stopping there for snacks, we checked the radar and realized that it was best to head quickly into town, as the storms had passed through but others were right behind us. We rolled into town much drier and were grateful for incredible hospitality at the Yoder guest house. Our hostess provided us with a dry place for our bikes and warm showers for us.

In town, we enjoyed a delicious dinner, an inexpensive ice cream, and are currently sipping beer in the living room of the guest house. Tomorrow, we’ll be watching storms again, but hope to make it to Paw Paw, West Virginia. We may hit a new milestone, as we’ll cross over into Maryland at the eastern continental divide, and potentially travel through three states in one day.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 60
Total climbing: 1378 ft.
Average pace: 11.6 mph
Current elevation: 1975 ft.
One dollar ice cream cones: 3
Cost of single slice of pepperoni: 58c
Miles to our first cornfields: 54
Feet of skid after stick was lodged into spokes: 6-8

 There was a crew working on a section of the trail. This is the equipment they use to repair and build the trail.

 Note the very gradual climbing today on this elevation chart.

 Fixing my shattered fender. Still dry at this point.

 Selfie from the trail.

 Ed found a bear in town.

 Alex’s first cornfields of the trip.

 Riding on the trail.

 One of many bridges across the river.

View of the river.

Ed and Alex by the river.