Day 54: Meyersdale, Pa. to Paw Paw, W. Va.

Despite an early rise this morning, forecasts showed an ominous storm over our early morning route, so we opted to take our time getting around. The delay ended up working in our favor, as the garage where our bikes were parked had a bike stand, chain cleaning supplies, and a multitude of other bike tools. So, we took same time getting our bikes tuned up before we checked the radar again and headed back to the trail. The first eight miles saw a continuation of the slow climbing we did for the last two days. After climbing a few hundred feet, we entered into a tunnel which was labeled as the "Eastern Continental Divide." If you, like me before this trip, are not aware of what that means: this is the point at which water flows either to the Gulf of Mexico on one side or the Atlantic coast on the other side. Exciting as it was to reach this point, it was definitely less climactic than the triple divide we climbed to in Glacier.

After reaching the top, we had an excellent, scenic, and quick descent into Cumberland, which marked the end of the GAP trail. Along the way, we also crossed the Mason-Dixon line which also was the line into our 13th state of the trip, Maryland. In Cumberland, we stopped for lunch, and at the edge of town, entered the C&O canal trail, which is the trail that will take us the last 180 miles into D.C. We had heard from many people that this trail was a very different surface, much less smooth, and not as well maintained as the GAP. After just a few miles on the trail, this was confirmed. The trail went from wide, hard packed, and smooth, to narrow and gravelly with intermittent mud pits. We intentionally planned our last few days on this trail to be shorter days, and were immediately glad that we had done so.

Tonight we are staying in Paw Paw at a B&B that specifically caters to cyclists and feels more like a touring cyclist's bunkhouse than anything. The proprietor, Dan, is extremely friendly, and rode about 8 miles down the trail in the afternoon heat to meet us and bring us into town to his place. He also led us into our 14th state, West Virginia. After hosing off our bikes, showering, and running a load of laundry, we explored the small town, which took about 30 minutes. We enjoyed a tasty dinner at the restaurant next door, and are now settling in for the evening.

Tomorrow we will continue down the C&O to Williamsport, just two days' riding from D.C. 

By the numbers:

Miles traveled: 62

Total climbing: 584 ft.

Total descending: 2014 ft.

Average pace: 12.9 mph

States traveled in: 3

National Parks entered: 1

Philly cheese steaks: 2
Country fried steaks: 2

Just past the continental divide.

 Brothers on either side of the Mason Dixon line. Ominous.

 Riding along the scenic railroad on the GAP.

 On the first stretch of the C&O. Note the change in surface.

 Selfie in the tunnel.

 Ed passing into West Virginia.

 In front of the second most exciting Continental Divide crossing of our trip.

 Ed took a selfie to get the windmills.

Where the paths meet in Cumberland.

 At the other end of one of our tunnels on the GAP. This one we shared with live railroad tracks.

One of our morning bridges, windmills in the distance.