Day 10: Seeley Lake to Bigfork, Mont.

We awoke this morning in Seeley Lake to heavy fogs and temperatures in the early 40s. It was our first time anywhere near this temperature in the morning, and definitely our first fog of the trip. We got started after waiting around for the front desk to open for coffee, and headed north on highway 83. Thankfully, the road was much quieter, with better shoulders than our last few miles on it yesterday. We both donned our warm layers, mine for the first time of the trip. Thankfully we had a little bit of climbing for the first 20 miles, and the fog wore off just a few miles after we left town.

Stopped for a second breakfast (our first was comprised of snacks we’d gathered from a hardware store) at the Hungry Bear, just south of Condon. As you can imagine, there was a lot of bear paraphernalia. Riding was beautiful, cool, and sunny all the way up 83 today. There were views of the Swan Mountains to our right, and the Mission Mountains to our left, with a series of lakes and rivers to our left as well. This was probably some of our most scenic riding of the trip so far. Aside from a few RVs and motorhomes passing too close, it was an excellent road. Google Maps had said we’d have only about 900 feet of climbing with nearly 2000 of descending, though the lived experience (and my dad’s bike computer’s altimeter) told a different story. Nevertheless, we must have had a net downhill, as we had one of our faster days, and arrived in Bigfork before 2:30pm Mountain Time. (Note: for editorial integrity, I’ll leave yesterday’s post, but please note that it is “Bigfork” not “Big Fork”).

Tonight we’ll explore the town, which just hosted a large rodeo this past weekend. Tomorrow, we’ll head up to camp by Lake McDonald in Glacier NP. It’s likely we’ll be without service again, but hopefully back to updating on Wednesday evening after we cross Logan Pass and the Continental Divide. If no service again then, the next day we’ll be in Canada near Cardston, Alberta. Hopefully we have service before then, otherwise you’ll be getting stats for the next few days in metric.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 74
Extra liters of water carried: 3
Unique forest entities traveled through: 3 (Lolo, Flathead NFs, and Swan State Forest)
Unidentified, possibly extraterrestrial birds spotted: 2
Total feet climbed: 1700? 900? Depends on your source.
Huckleberry-flavored products in Swan Lake: what seemed like thousands
Low temp: 39F

 This ice cream warning is not accurate.

 Posing in front of the Mission Mountains to our West.

 “The Hungry Bear” where we enjoyed another breakfast

Waiting out a hail storm last night in Seeley Lake.

In front of Swan Lake. “The longest lake without a dam.” I have not confirmed this.

Typical scenery for the day, a little later after things warmed up.

 Taking a stretch break down forest road.

Day 9: Missoula to Seeley Lake, Mont.

Last night after dinner, we took some time to finally do a proper load of laundry in the hotel. With clean clothes, we headed out to check out the brewery which was immediately adjacent to our hotel. When we went to order, however, we were informed that per Montana law, the brewery is only allowed to serve their beer onsite between the hours of 10am and 8pm. It being 8:20pm, we were not able to try their beer. The bartender recommended we go somewhere with a regular saloon license, which we did.

This morning, we’d decided to skip our scheduled rest day and continue on a shorter day to Seeley Lake. Knowing it was a shorter day, and being in a new time zone, we got a later start than usual, and headed out of Missoula around 9am. The first 40 miles saw pretty heavy traffic, but a nice wide shoulder along highway 200. We stopped into the grocery, tavern, restaurant, casino in Potomac, Mont., where they were celebrating the US World Cup victory in France.

Scenery was mostly similar to the last few days riding through the National Forest in Idaho. We passed through the University of Montana’s “experimental forest” which, admittedly, looked like a normal forest to me. I did not get too close to the trees though so, I can’t say for certain there wasn’t something experimental about them.

We stopped for a gas station lunch at the junction with 83 and it was clear that there was a lot of recreational traffic headed out of town, with a long backup turning off 83. After lunch, we continued the last 15 miles to Seeley Lake and traffic was still heavy, but our shoulder had disappeared. So, although it was a short day, we were glad to be off the roads as the recreational traffic roared on.

We attempted to walk up to Lake Seeley, but the “half mile” to the public access quoted by our motel was more like 1-2 miles along the same highway, so I think we will enjoy the beauty of the lake from across a highly “no trespassing” signed lawn.

Tomorrow we will head to Big Fork, Mont. before we enter Glacier NP Wednesday. We’ve had some spotty showers for the last two days, but the forecast through Going to the Sun Road looks good for now!

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 54
Total climbed: 1900 ft.
Lbs of chicken consumed: 6
Bull trout country signs: 4
Island resorts passed: 1

 There are a lot of bear statues in Montana.

 Ed coming downhill on 200. No raincoat, so it started raining shortly thereafter.

 Ominous. Mysterious.

 Somewhere along highway 200. Banks of the Blackfoot River.

Leaving Missoula this morning.

 Views from today.

Scenic lunch in Clearwater Junction.

Bears on the shower curtain, even.

Days 7-8: Kamiah, Idaho to Missoula, Mont.

We have arrived safely in Missoula! After Kamiah, we lost service almost immediately, and did not hear the buzzing of our phones until about 25 miles west of here as we descended toward Lolo, Mont.

We had two great days of riding. When we arrived Thursday in Kamiah, we wandered around town looking for someplace to eat. There was a taproom right next to the motel that served food and he told us a few other places to check out. As it turned out, they were all closed, so we ended up eating, along with what I gathered was more than the typical crowd, at the taproom. The owner was frantically rushing to get everyone beers, make food in the back, and ensure that a few locals never had an empty can of Coors.

Friday morning we began climbing along highway 12 East of Kooskia, and we did not stop climbing until about 11:30am Pacific Time Saturday. It was an extremely gradual climb, and we were following the Clearwater, Selway, and Lochsa rivers the whole way. We’d set out for the day thinking we would camp either around mile 55 near the Lochsa Historical Ranger Station, or at the next campground with water, near mile 95 at Powell Junction. Stopped for breakfast at Lowell, however, we met some cyclists heading west who told us of a campground with water that wasn’t on our map near mile 85. We decided that would be our destination and, after a long lunch (and brief nap) at the historical ranger station, followed by 30 more miles of slow climbing along the river, we reached our campsite near the Jerry Johnson Hot Springs. The campground was mostly empty and clearly set up more for trailers than tents, but we got by. We enjoyed the box of wine I’d carried up the mountain by the river and went to bed early. I awoke in the night to what looked like someone flashing a light in our tent but was actually lightening flashing over the hills behind our camp. A few hours later, the rain found us and we learned a few things we might do differently next time we set up the rain fly.

This morning, we continued climbing for about 24 miles, doing about the same total climbing as we’d done during the pervious 85 miles. Finally we reached Lolo Pass and entered Montana, and lost an hour to Mountain time. A couple we’d met at breakfast approached us at the pass and asked if we were trying to make it to the Adventure Cycling office before they closed at 4. With that as a goal, and thunderstorms crackling behind us, we raced down the mountain at probably our fastest pace into Missoula. We arrived at Adventure Cycling just after 4pm but learned that if they were open at all, they likely closed at 1pm. We were glad to have made it into town as rain and thunderstorms have been hovering here all evening.

All in all, it was a great two days of cycling. We’d considered a rest day here in Missoula but I think we will instead take a more leisurely pace up to Glacier NP over the next few days.

By the Numbers:
Total Mileage: 85 miles Friday, 70 miles Saturday
Highest point of the trip: 5225 feet (Lolo Pass)
Hours lost today: 1
Times we stopped to put on our rain coats: 3-4
Times it then immediately stopped raining: 3-4
Adventure Cycling Maps ridden on: 2

Enjoying a beer after our arrival in Missoula.

 Sign on Friday morning just as we left Kooskia, Idaho, heading up highway 12.

 Ascending slowly in the heat Friday.

 At the ACA HQ in Missoula.

Enjoying dinner at the campsite yesterday.

 Ed at the Grizzly statue in Missoula.

 Coming into town Saturday on the Bitterroot Trail.

Entering Montana just east of Lolo Pass.

 At Lolo Pass.

 Climbing Lolo Pass. Note the rain jacket. It was not raining.

Along the river near Lowell, Idaho.

Day 6: Lewiston to Kamiah, Idaho

Yesterday evening we took some time to explore Lewiston. We walked around the college and “historic downtown.” For dinner, we sought something other than burgers and pizza, so we found a combination Indian, Thai restaurant. We ended up having the whole restaurant to ourselves and the sole staff person waited on us. After looking over the menu and attempting to order, he made it clear that there were only a few things he would make, so we ended up with a somewhat mysterious noodle dish and mango chicken. It was not the best food we’ve had on this trip, but it was something different. After dinner we sat out on the patio at the Red Lion bar and enjoyed some drinks overlooking the hills.

Today’s riding started out a little slow going, thanks to too much coffee and a wayward staple that drained my dad’s tire within the first 10 miles. The rest of the day we were following 12 which was right along the river. The scenery gradually changed from dusty hills to more lush tree-lined road as we began our approach into the National Forest we’ll be riding through for the next two days. We took a brief break from 12 to ride through the Nez Perce National Park, and enjoyed a few miles along a nearly-abandoned road that followed the south side of the Clearwater River. There were a number of trucks along the route today and a lot of boaters, rafters, kayakers, and floaters along the way. When we checked in to our motel here in Kamiah, they alerted us that floating is a tradition on July 4.

We also met our first long distance touring cyclists at our lunch stop near Peck, Idaho. We talked with them over a very early lunch. One was headed from Seaside (Oregon) to Seaside (New York) (he gave us his card, b2bbiketrip.com is his blog). The other had started in Astoria and was ending at his home in Boston. Neither seemed optimistic that we would meet again after we told them our pace, but I imagine we’ll pass them tomorrow.

Tomorrow we are heading up into the hills with an indeterminate destination. We hope to arrive in Missoula either Saturday or Sunday, and we will camp somewhere along highway 12 tomorrow. It’s likely that we won’t have service until possibly Sunday, so should there be no update, worry not. If you haven’t already been tracking our location, the link is my profile on this page.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 67
Total for the trip so far: 453
Total elevation gained: 1170 feet
New tubes installed: 1
Forest Rangers constructing a teepee while listening to Bruce Springsteen: 2
Burritos eaten today (pre-dinner count):2

 Views along the Clearwater River. This is what we saw for much of the day.

Our first bear of the trip at Canyon Inn near Peck.

 With a fresh tube, along the river trail out of Lewiston.

Stopped for lunch.

Lewis and Clark statues on the Lewis and Clark campus in Lewiston along the Lewis and Clark bike route.

 An action photo along old highway 12.

Feeling uncomfortable at dinner.

From the patio in Lewiston.

Day 5: Dayton, Wash. to Lewiston, Idaho

We continued through the hills East of Dayton today, following highway 12 for the whole day. Weather has been especially favorable so far on the trip, with mornings rarely rising into the 80s and some good cloud cover but practically no rain. Winds were strong out of the South this morning and we were being pushed up the hills. On at least one steep descent, a gust of wind came off the side of the hills and tried to blow us over. After that, we both gripped tighter to control our bikes. The bags definitely catch the wind, which can be great with a tail wind, miserable with a head wind, or potentially dangerous with gusts from the side.

Nothing too remarkable about the scenery today, and more scarce services. We stopped for lunch in Pomeroy, Wash. After lunch, we climbed up to a pass and had a steep descent that leveled out and carried us all the way to the state border. Crossed the Snake River again into Lewiston, where we are staying tonight.

Last night’s hotel came at the recommendation of Niamh who stayed there for work. It did not disappoint, and we had an excellent breakfast before we took off this morning. Niamh has been a great source of tips in all the small towns along the way, but alas, as we leave Washington, we may have to start relying on other sources for suggestions. There was a Costco in Clarkston and if we’d stopped there for lunch, it would have been a truly O’Rourke business friendly day.

Tomorrow we’ll continue east to Kamiah before crossing Lolo Pass this weekend into Missoula.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 71
Total Climbed today: 2800 ft
Max Speed: 42.4 mph (Ed) / 38.2 mph (Colin)
Lewis and Clark Historical Markers: I stopped counting at 12
States traveled in: 2
Niamh-approved Businesses patronized: 2

 Along the Snake River, just on the Idaho side.

Self-explanatory

The top of our climb today, about 20 miles west of the state border.

Along the Snake River again, just West of Clarkston, Wash.

 In front of the bridge that carried us into Idaho

There were a lot of windmills today. A good day to charge your phone.

Day 4: Prosser to Dayton, Wash.

We started bright and early this morning, on the road in Prosser by 6am, and quickly climbing in the hills between Prosser and Richland. Much of the morning we followed the “O.I.E.,” or Old Inland Empire Highway, which was mostly quiet. We could tell that the winds would be favorable to us today as we climbed and descended at our fastest pace of the trip yet. By 8:30 we were stopped along the banks of the Columbia for our second breakfast, and to get supplies for the long day ahead of us. It was still about 60 miles to Dayton, but there was nothing on the map between Pasco and Waitsburg, so we decided to bring everything we needed for the day.

Through the Tri-Cities we were mostly along the Columbia, and crossed over along the 395 bridge, then shortly thereafter, crossed the Snake River on Highway 12 and joined highway 124, which we followed about 50 more miles through mostly agriculture, then rolling hills. We stopped to eat our sandwiches under one of the first trees we’d seen along the road. We were worried about the highway but the combination of cooler temps, favorable winds, and low traffic made for mostly pleasant riding. In Waitsburg we joined 12 which we’ll follow for much of the next few days. Finally after 99 long miles we arrived in Dayton, where we’re staying tonight. Despite the long day, our early morning meant we still arrived by 3:30.

Tomorrow we’ll press on with shorter mileage toward the Idaho border and stay in either Clarkston or Lewiston.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 99
Total Climbing: 2850 ft.
Burritos consumed today: 0
Vineyards passed: too many to count

 Where we procured our breakfast, lunch, and water for much of the day in Kennewick. If you are looking for inexpensive beer and an enormous selection of frisbees, I recommend it.

 Stopped along the Columbia River. Bridge in the background is where we crossed over.

 Somewhere along highway 124 West of Waitsburg. Much of the day looked like this.

 Same as above. Ed is in there if you zoom in close. He wanted me to add this shot so you could see how far ahead he was.

Riding along OIE hwy into Benton City. These photos are not in order.

Day 3: Ellensburg to Prosser, Wash.

We started an early morning from Ellensburg following what soon became Canyon Road south out of town. The road followed the Yakima River for about 35 miles south of Ellensburg and has likely become the road to beat for other sections of our tour. Weather was sunny and cool, winds were negligible, and although there were some minor climbs, the net elevation gain was negative. At one point, my dad commented that “this is what a 1% grade on pavement feels like.” And indeed, compared with the soft gravel of our first two days, it felt like gliding down a water slide. We sped through the first 35 miles and found ourselves just outside of Yakima for a breakfast stop by 9:30.

After we entered Yakima, the temperatures began to rise, and we lost the occasional shade from the canyon valleys. We also saw a touring hypothesis tested twice in quick succession. First, we turned onto a road that appeared to be a good thru route, bypassing the main highway. A sign read no outlet, but, as we’ve both often encountered, signs for cars don’t always apply to bikes. We eventually found ourselves, however, on a private drive winding through houses and then, eventually, at a locked gate. We decided to pass our bags through and lift our bikes over the gate. Thankfully the goat on the other side was not aggressive. Just down the road from there, a “road closed 1.5 miles” sign had my dad recalling that there was a mountain sliding near Yakima last summer. We eventually found the road closed sign but decided geological statistics were in our favor, and ended up enjoyed the quiet roads ahead.

We stopped for an excellent lunch in Zillah at La Placita, where I enjoyed my first burrito of the trip (inquiring minds should note that the burrito from yesterday was my dad’s). Everyone in the restaurant eventually heard of our trip and wished us well. The post-lunch heat was difficult with bellies full, and we pressed on the last 30 miles to Prosser in 95+ degree heat. Prosser remains relatively unchanged from our last trip here three years ago, though quieter on a Monday. We enjoyed a beer, and a lot of horse-themed kitsch, at Horse Heaven Hills Brewing. Which notably won best brewery in Prosser in 2011. I dare not search whether there was another brewery here at that time, but I know there is not one now.

Tomorrow we will have another long day toward the tri-cities, then eventually toward Waitsburg, Dayton, or Walla Walla for the night.

By the numbers:
Miles traveled: 91
Road signs ignored: 3
Total burrito tally of the trip: 2
Max Temperature: 97?

 Views along the canyon Road.

Much easier climbing than the last 2 days.

Horse Heaven Hills Brewing.

The other side of the gate.